With increasing awareness about the origins of our clothes, it's about time that we look at leather and it's sustainability rating. People gravitate towards leather becuase of it's durability and it's natural properties. Many also believe that leather is a by-product of the meat industry which would make it a much more sustainable option. This is simply not true, leather production is an industry in itself. The demand is so great that if there were no meat industry, the leather industry would still thrive. 

DEFORESTATION

Leather production significantly contributes to deforestation, particularly in the Amazon Rainforest, where about 80% of deforestation is linked to cattle ranching. This leads to massive biodiversity loss and endangerment of native species. Additionally, soy production, primarily for cattle feed, drives further deforestation. Globally, 77% of agricultural land is dedicated to raising animals for slaughter and their feed, exacerbating habitat destruction.

In Brazil, a major leather exporter, deforestation is evident. To produce nine leather jackets, approximately 10,000 square meters of land must be cleared, often illegally and in biodiverse regions like the Amazon. In contrast, alternatives like Piñatex’s pineapple leaf-based leather require significantly less land.

GREENHOUSE GAS EMISSIONS

Cattle farming is a major source of greenhouse gas emissions. Cows release methane, a potent greenhouse gas, through digestion. The United Nations identifies livestock as a major environmental problem. Additionally, deforestation for cattle ranching releases carbon into the atmosphere, further contributing to climate change. A pair of leather boots, for instance, has an estimated carbon footprint of 66kg of CO2e.

WATER USAGE AND CHEMICAL POLUTION

Leather production is extremely water-intensive. Creating a single leather tote bag can consume over 17,000 liters of water. Additionally, the tanning process, which converts animal skins into leather, uses harmful chemicals like chromium, formaldehyde, and arsenic. These substances can cause severe health issues and often pollute local water supplies, especially in lower-income countries where much of the tanning is done. This pollution affects both human and non-human communities.

END OF LIFE

Originating from an animal, we would think that leather goods will biodegrade back into the environment. This is not the case due the the toxic ingredients used in the tanning process. This also applies to some vegetable tanned leathers as well. 

TANNERY WORKERS

Workers in tanneries face significant health risks due to exposure to toxic chemicals. Studies show higher rates of cancer and other serious health issues among tannery workers. The regions where leather tanning is prevalent often experience high levels of pollution, leading to areas being termed “cancer villages.”

FARM AND SLAUGHTERHOUSE WORKERS

Farm workers involved in leather production often face forced labor and mental distress due to their work with sentient animals. Slaughterhouse workers, who are often marginalized individuals, can experience severe psychological trauma similar to PTSD, along with a high incidence of physical injuries. This environment can lead to increased violence within their communities.

Animals used in leather production, such as cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs, endure significant suffering. Calves, for example, may be slaughtered at just five days old, causing distress to both the calves and their mothers. Even older cattle face painful procedures without pain relief and are often slaughtered while fully conscious, regardless of local animal welfare laws.

While certification in the leather industry is an important step, it is not the complete answer. Certifications can be expensive to acquire which can push out the smaller suppliers, many of which are leading the way in sustainability and ethics. Below are some of the main certifications to look out for.

Leather Working Group (LWG): Aims to ensure sustainable and ethical leather. However, these certifications primarily focus on environmental aspects and often overlook worker conditions and animal welfare.

Certified Organic: This applies to the organic certification of the animals and farming practices used in raising them, ensuring no synthetic pesticides, fertilizers, or GMOs are used. This mainly addresses the agricultural side of leather production, not the tanning or manufacturing processes.

Sustainable Leather Foundation (SLF): Aims to enhance sustainability across the entire leather supply chain by promoting best practices in environmental responsibility, social responsibility, and governance. While the SLF provides a comprehensive framework, the impact of its certification depends on widespread adoption and industry collaboration.

Leather Standard by Oeko Tex: Designed to ensure that leather products are free from harmful substances, making them safe for consumers. This certification also emphasizes environmentally friendly production processes. The LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX primarily focuses on chemical safety and environmental aspects. It does not comprehensively cover social responsibility or animal welfare. While it ensures products are safe for consumers, it may not address all aspects of sustainable and ethical leather production.

Even leather from animals raised in “regenerative agriculture” systems has a higher environmental impact compared to plant-based systems.

This is not an easy question to answer because there are so many elements at play here. The most sustainable option is wear the leather that you already own, look after it, respect it and it should last you a long time. The second most sustainable option is buying second hand. A leather jacket gets better with age and a second hand leather handbag, so many options out there to choose from.

But what if you want to buy something new? The key is to do your research and find brands that you trust. Delve further than the surface and really find out what the brand's values are. Do they align with your own? We no longer have the luxury of flippantly buying something new, the environment is suffering from all of these flippant, compulsive purchases. Being intentional about your purchases and making decisions based on ethics rather than price alone is an important part in aligning your spending with your values.

There are now a lot of vegan options to choose from as well. These need to be approached with caution, some are not as sustainable as others.

Remember, sustainable fashion isn't just about what your buy, it's also about how you treat the clothes that you own. Buying less, buying quality and making your clothing that you own last and re-wearing time and time again helps you achieve a more earth friednly wardrobe.